Why do you bother?

The surface design, fiber art, and dyeing community has lost a valued member in Pat Williams, who passed away earlier this month.

Pat was a weaver, fiber artist, textile production teacher (particularly in jacquard weaving technique), and an active member of the Surface Design Association. She was the founder and moderator of the DyersLIST, an email list for textile surface design artists working with the medium of dye. Of particular note for me--Pat was bravely participating in a clinical trial for a potential treatment of pancreatic cancer, a horrific iteration of the disease which also claimed my aunt Mary Ruth this past October. I know that Pat will be much missed in so many areas of the textile community.

Here is the official obit:

Patricia A. (Pat) Williams, age 65, of Brighton and Alpena MI, passed away Thursday, December 17, at University of Michigan Hospital with family by her side. Pat was a participant in a clinical trial for treatment of pancreatic cancer.

She was born on April 19, 1944, in Corpus Christi TX, to parents Ellsworth and Charlotte Johnson, who preceded her in death. After living in several areas of the country, she settled in Ann Arbor, teaching at Eastern Michigan University as a professor of textile arts. In 1990 she married Lawrence (Larry) Stewart, the cherished love of her life, who preceded her in death. Pat is survived by her brother Rick Johnson (Sue); nephew Erik Johnson and niece Stephanie Johnson Chambrovich (Hugh); step-children Shelly and Duncan Stewart; and granddaughters Samantha Boyer, Jennie and Julee Stewart.

As a master weaver in her own right, Pat's interest was in translating the colors, forms, and textures of nature into woven works of art. A celebration of her life and art is being planned for the spring, in conjunction with the generous donation of her loom and educational support materials to Eastern Michigan University.

Condolences may be posted at Pat's online memorial guestbook.

The 1820 corset is completely done and is now in an extra gentle rinse cycle in the washer. That'll put an end to the blue marks! And hopefully relieve it of some cat hair too :)

Now, if I want to sew, no choice but to work on the dress!

The stays fit! You never really know with a corset until it's done, do you? Anyway, I'm super pleased. It does wrinkle in back and below the waist, but for something with absolutely no support--cording or boning--that's to be expected. The lacing is a little bumpy as well, but again, it's where skirts will go, so no matter. I can't imagine it's any bumpier than their corsets that just had cording in back were--it's just not as stiff as boning! I probably should've spaced the eyelets a little closer, but I didn't, so that's that :)

All I need to do now is bind them, shorten the straps (as expected) and take in the dart a little more over the stomach.

And oh, amazingly comfortable. Yay!

( Mirror Pictures )

It makes me happy as well that things I used to see as flaws I now see as a natural part of the costume. Cording and boning don't act the same, and I'm fine with that now :)

ETA: I've been wearing them for a bit and tightened them in that it's a laced thing and therefore will stretch way, and there's less bumpiness in back. Very neat! I've added a picture as well. Still bumpy and still under the skirts, so no matter. I must say though, I like big gaps in corsets and this small one is a little scary. I was aiming for a small gap on this one, at least :)

I was going to work on the sleeve tonight, but I'm feeling lazy so I think I'm going to work on the corset instead. Much easier. And since it's close to being done, maybe I'll get that sense of accomplishment in finishing something that will make it seem possible to have everything done by the 23rd! We'll see :)

And worst case, it's not like I don't have backup dresses :)

Why is it that some projects are incredibly fast, but other super slow? Tonight I only managed to sew 2 1/2 of four lines needed for the last cording channels on the 1820 corset. They are tiny stitches, but still. I can normally do more than 2 1/2 seams in three hours!

I'm not sure now if I'm going to finish the corset or the sleeve on the accompanying dress first. Or maybe even cut out the skirt. We'll see! And I found what I think is the bodice pattern from the red dress I made back in 2004, I think it was. Even if it doesn't fit, it's a good starting point! And I still need to figure out what the bodice is going to look like :)

I decided to work on the corset instead of the sleeve tonight. I wanted mindless! Anyway, I'm glad I did and am making quite a bit of progress, even if it is slow. It's the pulling four cords through each channel that's taking so long. I have two back cords on each side done. Just two left! I did three tonight, and except for a break to eat (leftover Chinese--yum!), it took both of the Cate Blanchett Elizabeths.* And I'm still finding bits of blue ink. Even far away from where there even was blue ink. I might have to just dip the whole thing in water when I'm done.

Anyway, here's a picture to prove I'm doing something!



I'm still undecided if I should do cross or spiral lacing. The inspiration stays do have cross lacing, but spiral is easier to put on. It is a transitional time. I don't have to decide right now though :)

*I know, but I like them!

I'm feeling very overambitious. Two days, and I don't even have one finished sleeve band! The first one is almost done--two flower things just need to be ironed and sewn together. I think I'm going to do the rest of the sleeve next, both for a change of pace and because I want to see what the whole thing looks like before I move to sleeve number two. I usually don't like working like that, but at the same time, if I don't like it, it's too much work to change!
The skirt will be easier though. The trim will be larger, and therefore less fiddly. Also, it'll be sewn flat to the skirt so I just have to trim the piping and lay it down. Much easier than sewing the backs shut! Of course, I still want five rows of ruffles and a padded hem under the scalloped hem. But the ruffles will be bias cut and not hemmed. That has to count for something! Gathering over cords is quick. I'm still not sure what the bodice will look like, and the long sleeves will be easy. Plain except for one piped flower around the cuff. In other words, I need to get busy :)

Also, I think I finally got all the blue marks out of the corset. They just wouldn't go away! They moved each time I got it wet. Silly blue marks...

In a very me move, I went back to the sleeve last night and it's going to work. No, my piping isn't as polished looking as theirs was, but I still think it looks pretty good. And it's hard! But fun :) Observe--part of a sleeve band:



Now to very carefully iron it. Well, after finishing all the little piped parts for one sleeve :)

( A very odd sleeve mockup, and Petunia's silk taffeta fort )

...that I already want to simplify the dress? One piped piece that didn't work out right and I'm ready to change. Hmm. I really shouldn't yet. It's too early! Who knows :)

Right now I have a mock up for a sleeve that is going to do one of two things. One, it's going to be the most incredible sleeve ever, or two, it's going to make me cry. Possibly both. But I think I'm going to love it!

Wish me luck :)

I decided I'm ready to start the ball gown. So what if I'm not done with the corset? Makes no difference for the sleeves or the skirt!

I spent ages awake last night daydreaming about just how I want to do the sleeves and things. I think this is going to be one of those love/hate* projects. So much piping! Yay!

Now, to drive across town for thread. Boo. I'm surprised I didn't buy thread last time I was in the garment district since I did buy it for other future projects. You think I'd have bought the thread for the next project, but no, I am silly :)

And hooray for finally getting excited about this!!!

*otherwise known as projects where I complain through the whole thing despite the fact that I'm loving working on it. See the 1869 dress for the prime example

I've finished the decorative cording on the corset! Of course, I still have the cording around the eyelets which haven't been made. I've done one, and it took me about half an hour to get the cording through it. I'm quadrupling in though, as I'm determined to not use boning for the first time. It's very stiff. Still, I'm not exactly looking forward to the next five. Maybe I can do those tomorrow, then make the eyelets, sew the dart, gather the bust gussets and bind it. So much left!

I'm starting to look forward to the dress though. At least, the sleeves. I'm planning on some really awesome sleeves. I think they'll be fun :)

I actually worked on my new Regency stays last night! The cording is almost done. Well, the sewing for the cording, anyway.

Predictably, I ran out of the silk buttonhole twist that I was using to sew the cording in. However, since I expected this, I was careful about how I used it. Instead of doing a section and finishing and cording it, I sewed all the outer outlines and now just have a few of the inner parts left. I'm going to sew those in some pearl cotton that I have. It's thinner than the buttonhole twist, but hopefully won't be too bad a compromise since I'd rather not order more buttonhole twist. I could actually do the eyelets, bind them and save the rest of the cording for last, but I don't want to. Enough of a reason, I think.

I'm starting to be ready to be done with the corset. I'm enjoying working on it, but really need to move on! I can't do the dress without it. Well, I could use my old stays but I'm not completely happy with them anymore. They're too thick--even though I based the thickness on a period source, I don't like four layers--and they end at just the wrong spot over my stomach. I'm sure they didn't end there when I first made them!

And no stays? Seriously not an option. Regency looks horrible on me without stays! Majorly frumpy :)

From now through February, because it's the time when people who are applying to graduate school are getting their portfolios up-to-date, sending in applications and scheduling interviews, i'll be addressing relevant topics now and then.

In the interest of covering all the bases, i'll start this off with links to my series of prior topical posts on costume-related graduate school subjects:

• Preparing to Apply to an MFA Program
  
• MFA Programs: Design vs. Production
  
• List of Schools Offering a Costume Production MFA
  
• Assembling a Portfolio
  
• Costume Design Portfolio Resources
  
• Getting into the MFA Program You Want
  
• What Our Interview Schedule is Like
  
• Application Timeline and Assistantship Information
  
• Should I Go to U/RTA?

Today's topic: letters of recommendation.

I get asked to write letters of recommendation by former students fairly often--for jobs and fellowship applications in the case of former grad students, but because on rare occasions i have undergraduates in my courses, occasionally for grad school applications as well. And clearly, I see dozens of them when I look through the files of applicants to our own program each year. (I don't make any of the acceptance decisions here, BTW, i just read through the applications and offer feedback when asked.) Graduate programs and scholarship committees and the like pay particular note of these letters; just as your statement of purpose and your portfolio represent how you professionally present yourself, the letters represent the impression you have left on others in your professional and academic career thusfar.

In terms of who you should ask, i've mentioned in earlier posts in this series that you need to choose people who have nothing but the most glowing opinions of you, who have not a single bad thing to say about you, but also who are not your own mom/spouse/BFF. If you don't have three people whom you are certain can write letters to this effect, you need to evaluate why, and work on acquiring those references before applying.

If you have more than three people you are considering (and i say "three," as that's the common number of recommendations requested, though maybe you need two or four, depending on the application), i advise making a spreadsheet or a chart with the following categories for each applicant, to help in choosing which three:

• Length of Acquaintance: How long has this person known you? Have you stayed in contact? Someone you took a class with for three months five years ago may not be able to write as extensive a recommendation as someone you have worked for over the past year. Then again, the professor from five years ago might be someone you've kept up with who really champions your career, while the boss from the last year's job might still be bitter about when you showed up hungover the day after your birthday last month. Use your judgement; it's just one factor to consider.
  
  
• Relationship to the Program: Do you know anyone who's an alum of the program? Or who is a former classmate or colleague of the department head? Again, this is a case where you need to use your judgment. It's no good having a recommendation from someone with a connection to the program who barely knows you and can't say much about your worthiness as a candidate, and it's definitely no good having a recommendation from someone who's an alum that didn't do very well in the program! And, even a glowing recommendation from a colleague of the department head won't automatically get you in if your personal statement and portfolio aren't up to snuff, or if you interview poorly, etc etc. If it's an option you have though, it can be a good augmentation.
  
  
• Experience in the Field: Ideally, you have three recommendation letters from people who are professionals or academics in the field of professional costuming. If you do not but you still feel that you are ready for graduate school and determined to apply, consider carefully who to ask. Is there someone who can speak to your work in a related area from a professional standpoint, say perhaps a supervisor at a bridal alterations shop you worked at who can talk about your sewing skills, fine fabrics knowledge, and responsibility as an employee? How about a director with whom you worked as a stage manager, who can speak to your organizational skills, devotion to the creative process, and excellent time management abilities?
  
  If you choose to ask someone outside the field, make certain they are willing and able to write the type of letter you need--several paragraphs with specific examples, not just the one-paragraph form-letter references that people request in the corporate workplace. Those form letters don't hurt you ("Ms. Smith is punctual and reliable employee of 2 years at our company. She has never been late to work."), but they're a waste of an opportunity to communicate anything of depth about you as a candidate.

But the point of this post is not really about choosing WHO to ask; it's about the etiquette of asking. I will assume that you can look at your academic and professional history and choose three people who'd be glad to recommend you for your diligence, dedication, maturity, intelligence, creativity, skill, and so forth, and none of whom would describe your performance as "adequate" or "sufficient" (red-flags for a "recommendation" that someone has written for an applicant they find unremarkable or don't remember well enough to speak about). Once you know who to ask though, how do you go about it?

If they are someone you currently work with or take a course with, ask in person. Stop by their office during open office hours or make an actual appointment. Sit down and ask them face to face rather than shooting an email. When you do so, explain in serious, professional terms why you are making your application, how the grad program or scholarship or fellowship will further your career goals, and ask whether they feel willing and able to write you a recommendation. Provided they agree, give them a copy of your personal statement, your resume or CV, and an info sheet with details from the application--when the recommendations are due, any guidelines they might have cited as to content, and anything they need to submit it with ease (if the program wants online recommendations, then the submission form URL or proper email address; if they want standard mail letters, then a SASE).

If they are someone you cannot go visit in person to ask--a former supervisor who lives in a different state, for example--then a call or an email is acceptable. Clearly this is a generalization, but even if you have a fairly informal/casual rapport with the person, you should still word this particular email or phone call in a professional manner (i.e., no LOLs or nicknames or inside jokes, etc.), and no matter how well you know them you should still provide a copy of your resume/CV and your statement of purpose. You need to leave a professional documentation-trail on this.

Give them as much lead time as you possibly can. If you can ask a couple months in advance, do so. It takes time and effort to write a really good, effective recommendation letter, and you should be mindful of the fact that your former professors, current supervisors, and fellow colleagues have busy lives with many obligations, and that what you are asking them to do is a big favor. I probably spend at least 2-3 hours writing a really good recommendation letter, and those are hours i'm not getting paid; that's what you are essentially asking for--someone to give up some of their free time for no other reason than to help you out. Chances are, if you ask for a letter a couple weeks (or a couple days) before your deadline, you won't get as good of a letter as if you ask a month or more ahead of time. You may even have trouble finding someone able to write you one if the turnaround is too fast--a professor who would have written you a glowing letter a month ago might actually resent your presumption at asking with a super-fast turnaround time during midterms or their family vacation.

Do not expect to read these letters. Whether that is formalized is contingent on the expectations of the program--some have a form both you and the recommendation writer need to sign stating that you relinquished the right to read the letter, some ask that the letters be sent separately from your other materials and request disclosure as to whether you read them or not. Recommendations carry more weight if they are confidential; if you insist on reading them, the presumption is that the author may not have felt free to speak as openly as s/he might otherwise. Basically, if you have asked the right people, you ought not need to read them; you know they'll be great!

Good recommendation letter-writers will notify you when they've sent the letter off, but even the best of us forget sometimes. If the deadline's approaching and you haven't heard back as to whether they sent it or not, it's okay to ask politely whether they've mailed it, with a gentle reminder of the cutoff date.

And, once the deadline has passed and you know the your letters have been received, send actual real thank-you cards to the people who wrote them. These folks have just done you a huge favor on their own time for which there can be no compensation whatsoever beyond the nebulous idea of good karma or paying-it-forward; you owe them a formal acknowledgment of that and expression of your gratitude.

There you have it, my recommendation recommendations. If you are applying for graduate admission or for a new job or fellowship in the coming year, the best of luck to you!

The theme of this winter break has been sleep. I've slept late each day, and also napped yesterday and today.

Also, I have zero motivation to work on my Jane Austen Evening things. This isn't good! A month is enough time to finish the corset and make the dress, although maybe not as elaborate as I want it to be. Oh well, it's also really nice knowing I have a backup wardrobe!

Loads of fun! And even if I never got my right skate on properly, I managed not to fall. Sarah and Twila even knew what they were doing. Oh, and we went out to lunch. And a little shopping!

While skating, we were asked if we were Mennonites. Too funny!



Shoe shot!

( More this way! )

I decided that since I went to two events without making anything, I needed to make something for ice skating, right? So I decided to make the ale-house dress early :)



( More, of course! )

Before Williamsburg, I'm going to make a new shift with tighter sleeves, a new bigger cap and do big hair :)

Oh, locked entries unlocked too. Not that they're super exciting or anything :)

I just noticed on Facebook that someone joined a group called this:

Were against Facebook charging 14.99 pounds a month from July 1, 2010

OK, so you* were* against it? Now you're for it! Well, good to know :)

Apostrophes are our friends. Execept when they're not, that is :)

The mitts are done! Hmm. Must update Ravelry status. I think I'll wait to officially call them done until I have pictures of them with costume tomorrow though. I'm also happy because I found all of my costume bits, even with both 18c shifts deciding to hide in totally the wrong place. I was afraid I'd have to cut down the sleeves on the Tudor shift! Which I wouldn't have done, but I think contemplating it made it easier to find the 18c shifts.

I even sewed black ribbons on my black felt hat. Seems better than straw :)

Anyway, tomorrow, attack things with the lint roller. No point in doing it tonight! I'm very excited about ice skating in costume tomorrow. Can you tell? And I have been ice skating before. During college, and despite the obnoxious teenage hockey players doing their best to ignore everyone else, I managed to stay up with no difficulty. And though it's been years, I do know how to rollerblade :)

It was fun though! But tiring. On the way back home I had a quadruple iced latte and went straight to bed. See, I've always had weird sleeping habits :)

Is it just me, or are these stockings
with cherries printed all over them in the Met some of the most
amazing things ever?

I want some. Seriously want some!